Chainsaw On Hand
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Inspect the cutters saw teeth on your chain loop. The semicircular cutting edges can be quickly sharpened and reshaped with a round file. A depth-gauge fin in front of each cutter controls how deep the cutter bites into the wood. The angles ground on the cutters alternate between left and right to keep the saw cutting straight.
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The cutters on a chain have semicircular cutting edges in specific diameters; to sharpen them, use a round file of the same diameter Photos 2 and 3. After repeated sharpenings, the cutters can become level with the depth gauges—and keep the saw from cutting. Sharpening is easy if the cutters have dulled from normal use.
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If the cutters are nicked badly from accidental contact with rocks, dirt or objects embedded in trees, you may need to have the chain professionally sharpened or buy a new one. Buy four tools for freehand to use as a chainsaw sharpener: a round file with file guide to sharpen the cutters, and a flat file with a depth-gauge guide for lowering the depth gauges. And no rattail files in the file guide. Now start filing. Count your strokes, and use the same number of strokes on each cutter. Make outward strokes from your body with the file at 30 or 35 degrees to the bar. The file guide helps you file all cutters to the same depth and shape.
Cut a slot in a log to hold the saw bar while sharpening. Look through the file guide to line up the cutter with the file. File every other cutter and then move to the other side of the bar to sharpen the rest. Wear gloves for this. Cut a 2-in.
Place the file and file guide into a cutter on the top and near the end of the bar; mark the top of this cutter with a felt-tipped pen to indicate where you began using a chainsaw sharpener. Line up the file with the factory-ground angle on the cutter. This is almost always 30 or 35 degrees.
Most file guides have and degree angles etched on their upper side to help you preserve the angle as you file. Make a stroke, maintaining the proper angle on the cutter, parallel to the ground and away from your body.
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The first couple of strokes on a dull cutter may vibrate your hand a little. Make five or six outward strokes, and then stop. The cutting angles on the cutters reverse direction every other tooth, so skip a cutter and file the next one the same number of strokes as the first. Always file so the burr is formed on the outside edge of the cutter. After you sharpen five or six cutters, put on gloves and pull the chain along the bar to expose the next batch of cutters. Continue sharpening cutters until you reach the one you marked, then move to the other side of the saw bar and sharpen the opposite-angled cutters, again using the same number of strokes per cutter.
You can save time and energy by using a rotary tool to sharpen the cutters. Be sure to wear safety glasses while using it.
Safety Precautions to Reduce Risk of Injury or Death
Sharpen every other cutter as you would by hand with a round file, then switch and do the opposite cutters. When you get used to sharpening with a rotary tool as a chainsaw sharpener, you can leave it running as you move from cutter to cutter to make sharpening go even faster. The Dremel manual explains how to lower the depth-gauge fins with the grinding wheel.
Check the height of the depth gauges with the filing guide each time you sharpen. When they protrude above the guide, file them flush with a flat file. Check the height of the depth-gauge fins in front of the cutters with the depth-gauge guide Photo 5. The gauge rests on the cutters and a slotted ledge on each end straddles the depth-gauge fin. Cut out the blade with a bandsaw or similar tool. Place the jug top we cut off over the base of the blade and mark the blade at the center of where the jug spout used to be.
Remove the jug top and mark two diagonal holes for mounting the blade--it doesn't matter where as long as they fit under the blade cover. Drill small holes around the edge of the blade about every 8" or so for attaching the sash chain with wire - make sure to make holes at the very back of the blade at the top and bottom. Attach the end of the sash chain to the back of the blade with wire. Now use the hot glue to attach the chain the rest of the way around. Hot glue works pretty well, but as the chainsaw gets banged around, it will let loose in spots, so also use wire to attach the chain.
Give the whole blade a coat of silver paint and then a splotchy coat of black. Once dry, use a wire brush, etc to scratch it up. First, cut a piece of dowel to about 6. Decide on placement of your interior handle I suggest vertically , mark the top and bottom, and drill holes.
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Use the 3D printed grill base to mark and drill holes for 6 screws. Drill a hole for the conduit elbow toward the bottom-front of the chainsaw--you may have to use a spade bit or even razor knife for this. Drill holes on each side and bottom of the hand opening for the braces - I used 10 screws here.
Decide on the blade angle and use it to trace the holes onto the body and drill out. I'd also recommend drilling some holes in the bottom or front of the chainsaw for ventilation--it gets sweaty in there! Using Krylon Fusion or similar 'for plastics' paint is important for the body. The jug flexes easily which would cause most paint to crack and come off.
Remove the 'gas cap' from the spout and paint the body, blade cover jug top and 3D printed grill base red. Paint the gas cap, pipe clamp and conduit handle black. Optionally, paint the side greeblie, large blade washer and bolt black as well. Once dry, trace the grill base onto paper and cut it out to make a mask to paint a black circle where the base will mount--optional, but a nice touch. Paint the 3D printed grill silver -- I printed in black and gave it a splotchy coat of silver so it looked exhaust-stained.
Otherwise, give it a coat of silver and a spritz of black to achieve same look. The Evil Dead chainsaw has a distinctive grill that I couldn't find a suitable piece for, so I designed and 3D printed one which you can download. For those without access to a 3D printer, something else will have to be substituted.
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My original plan was to cut off the bottom of a small, plastic flower pot and use that as the side grill--if you come up with a better idea, let us know. Here are the directions for the 3D printed version:. Trace the grill base and mounting holes onto a piece of MDF - cut out and drill holes. This is technically optional, but using this backer when mounting the grill will flatten out the side of the jug and make the grill fit flush which looks better. Take the remaining piece of dowel rod approximately 2. Bang up the handle with a hammer or screwdriver to weather it -- I also beveled the ends.
I stained the handle with some dark varnish or just grime it up with some shoe polish or black paint. Grime up the rope with some shoe polish, knot the end and thread it through the grill base. Put handle on rope and knot it as close to handle as possible--trim. Mount the grill base to the chainsaw body with 6 screws and the MDF backer on the inside.
You shouldn't need to use all the screws, 4 is probably enough to pull the grill base flat to the body. The last step is to glue the grill onto the base but I'd do that once everything else has been put on - just in case you mess up and need to remove the base. Install the blade with the diagonal 10 screws. Attach blade cover with large washer and bolt.
Tighten until cover is nice and snug. Lastly, install the inside dowel handle. Drill small pilot holes for the screws, otherwise the wood will split. Attach the three braces for the hand clamp using 10 screws.
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They should have a slight angle to them which you can make with a vice and hammer. Adjust the pipe clamp to the desired diameter, position it inside the brackets and mark the holes. Remove clamp and drill holes. I used a piece of wood inside the clamp for stability and backing. Next, install clamp with 10 screws.